Home/The Good Stuff
45 answers · 194 more in the WikiThe Good Stuff
Good food. Great books. Interesting finds. And the occasional very strong opinion about pasta.
Pasta, rice and grains
Back to top- What is pasta water for, and when do you add it?Pasta water is salty, starchy and the reason restaurant sauces cling. When to save it, how much to add, and how to tell it has worked.
Vegetables
Back to top- How do you cook vegetables so they actually taste good?Vegetables taste good when they brown instead of steam: dry surfaces, a hot roomy pan, salt at the right moment and a sharp finish. Here is how.
- How do you get chickpeas properly crispy?Truly crunchy roast chickpeas come down to drying them well, enough oil, a hot oven, plenty of space, and seasoning at the right moment.
- How do you make a salad that isn't sad?A salad stops being sad when the dressing is tasted, the leaves are dry, there is texture and something warm, and it is dressed in a bowl, not drowned.
- How do you make lentils interesting?Pick the right lentil for the job, cook it to the texture you want, finish with fat and acid, then send it in one of three directions.
Techniques and kitchen basics
Back to top- How do you know how much salt to use when cooking?Salt by tasting, in layers, from the start of cooking to the last flake on top, plus how to salt pasta water and when to reach for flaky salt.
Ingredients and the pantry
Back to top- How do you choose a good olive oil in a supermarket?How to read an olive oil label in the aisle: what extra virgin legally means, harvest and best-before dates, origin, and why the bottle matters.
- How do you get umami flavour without meat?What umami is, and the pantry ingredients that bring savoury depth without meat: parmesan rinds, tomato paste, mushrooms, miso and soy sauce.
- How do you make a tomato sauce taste less flat?A flat tomato sauce is usually short of salt, fat, acid or time. How to tell which one, and the order we try the fixes in before anything clever.
- How do you make pesto that doesn't go brown?Why pesto darkens and what we do about it: gentle leaf handling, cool tools, an oil cap, and freezing in small portions without the cheese.
- How do you make tinned beans taste like you meant it?Tinned beans are among the best things in the cupboard. Warm them in flavoured oil, mash some for body, and finish with acid and herbs so they taste deliberate.
- How do you use lemon zest without it turning bitter?Lemon zest turns bitter when the white pith comes along for the ride. Which tool to use, how deep to go, when to add it, and why unwaxed lemons help.
- What can you do with stale bread?Stale bread is an ingredient, not leftovers: panzanella, pappa al pomodoro, ribollita, croutons and breadcrumbs, and the Italian logic behind them.
- What is the best way to keep fresh herbs from wilting?Soft herbs like a jar of water, woody herbs like damp paper in the fridge, and basil hates the cold. How we keep each kind lively for longer.
- What is the difference between lemon zest and lemon juice in cooking?Zest brings lemon perfume from the oils in the skin; juice brings sourness. When each one fits, why most dishes want both, and how other citrus compares.
- Why finish a dish with raw olive oil?A thread of raw olive oil at the end brings back the aroma that cooking dulls. Which dishes want it, which oil to use, and when to skip it.
Italian dishes and traditions
Back to top- How do you make a frittata that isn't rubbery?A tender frittata comes from gentle heat, enough fat, the right pan and taking it off the heat while the centre still wobbles. Here is how we do it.
- What is a soffritto, and why does it matter?Soffritto is the slowly cooked base of onion, carrot and celery behind countless Italian sauces, soups and braises. What it is, how to cook it, when to skip it.
Everyday cooking and hosting
Back to top- How do you cook for one without eating the same thing all week?Cooking for one without a week of identical leftovers: cook components not dishes, make half-batches, and send one base in three different directions.
- How do you make a vegetarian dinner feel like a proper meal?A meat-free dinner feels like a meal when the plate has four things on it: something crisp, something rich, something sharp and something warm.
- How do you make eggs for dinner without it feeling like breakfast?Eggs feel like dinner when they sit on or in something substantial: a spicy tomato sauce, a frittata, greens or beans, with an egg timed to land just right.
- How do you plan a dinner party menu without stressing?A calm dinner party menu has one hot dish, everything else made ahead or served at room temperature, and a clear order of work for the day.
- What can you cook when the fridge is nearly empty?With eggs, a tin, a starch, an allium and something sharp, an empty-looking fridge still has dinner in it. The five-things approach to pantry improvisation.
- What do you cook when it's too hot to cook?Italian-summer thinking for heatwaves: no-cook plates, one-burner dishes, and food that is better at room temperature than hot.
- What should you keep in the pantry for quick weeknight dinners?A short, opinionated pantry list for fast weeknight dinners, and why each item earns its place on the shelf instead of gathering dust behind the paprika.
- What should you pack to eat on a long day outdoors?Food that survives a backpack and still tastes good at the top: sandwiches that hold, things that don't wilt, salt and crunch, and smart packing.
Italian writers and Italy
Back to top- Is The Leopard by Lampedusa worth reading?Lampedusa's The Leopard (1958): what it is about, why it is a classic, how to approach the Risorgimento background, and whether to watch Visconti's film first.
- What is Natalia Ginzburg's Family Lexicon about?Natalia Ginzburg's Family Lexicon (1963) is a memoir of a Turin family told through the phrases they repeated. What it covers, and why it reads so modern.
- What novels set in Italy are best for a summer holiday?Five novels set in Italy for a summer holiday, from Portofino escapism to Neapolitan friendship and Sicilian decline, matched to the kind of trip you are on.
- Where should you start with Elena Ferrante?Start with My Brilliant Friend, the first Neapolitan Novel. How the quartet fits together, what to read after it, and what the anonymity means for readers.
- Where should you start with Italo Calvino?Where to begin with Italo Calvino: Marcovaldo for charm, Invisible Cities for wonder, If on a winter's night for play, Italian Folktales for dipping.
Novels and classics
Back to top- What is The Enchanted April about, and is it worth reading?Elizabeth von Arnim's 1922 novel about four women who rent a castle in Portofino for a month: what happens, why it still charms, and who should read it.
Food writing
Back to top- Is Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat worth reading?Samin Nosrat's 2017 book teaches four principles instead of rules. What it covers, who it suits, and how it relates to the Netflix series.
- What are the best books about the history of Italian food?The best histories of Italian food: John Dickie's lively Delizia!, Capatti and Montanari's scholarly Italian Cuisine, and Artusi's 1891 classic.
- What are the best food books that aren't cookbooks?Food writing worth reading cover to cover: M.F.K. Fisher, Anthony Bourdain, Tamar Adler and Bill Buford, and which one to pick for your mood.
- Who was Marcella Hazan, and which of her books should you start with?Marcella Hazan taught generations of English-speaking cooks Italian home cooking. Who she was, the famous tomato sauce, and which of her books to buy first.
- Who was Pellegrino Artusi, and why does his cookbook still matter?Pellegrino Artusi, the businessman behind the 1891 cookbook that gathered Italy's regional cooking into one book for home cooks, and why it still matters.
Ideas and how to live
Back to top- Is Marcus Aurelius's Meditations worth reading today?Is Meditations worth reading? What Marcus Aurelius's private notebook is, how Stoic ideas run through it, which translation to pick and how to read it.
Sport, travel and the outdoors
Back to top- What are the best books about cycling?The best cycling books that aren't about kit: Tim Krabbé's The Rider, Paul Fournel's Need for the Bike, and Tim Moore's two grand-tour misadventures.
- What are the best books about running that aren't training manuals?Four running books with no interval tables: Born to Run, Murakami's running memoir, Once a Runner and Feet in the Clouds, and who each one suits.
- What are the best books about swimming?Three swimming books worth packing: Roger Deakin's Waterlog, Bonnie Tsui's Why We Swim and Leanne Shapton's Swimming Studies, and who each suits.
- What are the best books about walking?Three walking books for three moods: Solnit's Wanderlust for ideas, Macfarlane's The Old Ways for old paths, Bryson's A Walk in the Woods for laughs.
- What is Murakami's What I Talk About When I Talk About Running about?Murakami's 2007 running memoir explained: what it covers, how it links running to writing, how long it takes to read, and who will enjoy it most.
Reading habits and how books work
Back to top- How do you read more books when you're busy?Practical ways to read more when life is full: always carry a book, read in the gaps, quit what bores you, count audiobooks, and read before the phone.
- How do you start a book club that actually lasts?How to start a book club that survives its first year: the right size, a steady rhythm, fair book choices, simple food, and no guilt about unfinished books.
Recipes: they arrive once they have passed a real kitchen test.
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194 reference answers →Reference answers on the same ground: checked for facts and sources, less curated than the magazine.
Pasta, rice and grains 16
- Can you make fresh pasta without a pasta machine?
- How do you make a grain salad that isn't bland?
- How do you make a pasta bake that isn't dry?
- How do you make a vegetable lasagne that isn't watery?
- How do you make lemon pasta that doesn't taste sour or split?
- How do you make polenta creamy instead of lumpy?
- How do you make shop-bought gnocchi taste great?
- How do you make spaghetti aglio e olio that isn't greasy?
- How do you reheat pasta without it drying out?
- How do you tell when pasta is al dente?
- What can you do with leftover polenta?
- What is a raw tomato pasta sauce, and when is it worth making?
- What is farro, and how do you cook it?
- What is the difference between arborio, carnaroli and vialone nano?
- Which pasta shape goes with which sauce?
- Why are my potato gnocchi gummy?
Vegetables 19
- How do you cook aubergine so it isn't oily or spongy?
- How do you cook courgette flowers?
- How do you cook fennel if you don't like aniseed?
- How do you get roast potatoes properly crispy?
- How do you grill vegetables on a barbecue without them falling apart?
- How do you make a vegetable soup creamy without cream?
- How do you make bitter greens taste good?
- How do you pick ripe tomatoes at the market?
- How do you prepare a fresh artichoke?
- How do you roast a whole cauliflower?
- How do you roast and peel peppers at home?
- How do you stop courgettes going watery?
- How do you tell which part of asparagus is woody?
- What can you do with broccoli stalks?
- What can you make with a butternut squash?
- What do you do with too many courgettes?
- What do you do with too many tomatoes at the end of summer?
- What is the difference between chard, spinach and cavolo nero?
- Why are my roasted vegetables soggy instead of crispy?
Techniques and kitchen basics 17
- How do you add chilli heat without overpowering a dish?
- How do you boil an egg so the yolk is jammy?
- How do you brown butter, and what do you use it for?
- How do you calm down a dish that's too spicy?
- How do you caramelise onions properly?
- How do you make a light, crisp batter for frying vegetables?
- How do you make a vinaigrette that doesn't separate?
- How do you make vegetable stock that actually tastes of something?
- How do you rescue a dish that's too salty?
- How do you roast chestnuts at home?
- Should you use the fan setting on your oven?
- What does blanching vegetables actually do?
- What does deglazing a pan mean?
- What kitchen knife should you buy first?
- When should you add herbs: at the start or at the end?
- Which frying pan should you buy first?
- Why won't my mushrooms brown?
Ingredients and the pantry 20
- Can you make ricotta at home?
- How do you get the best out of stock cubes and bouillon?
- How do you make chilli oil at home safely?
- How do you make quick pickles?
- How do you preserve vegetables in oil safely at home?
- How do you store olive oil so it doesn't go stale?
- How do you use dried porcini mushrooms?
- How do you use oranges in savoury cooking?
- What can you do with a jar of pesto besides pasta?
- What can you do with leftover wine in cooking?
- What can you do with Parmesan rinds?
- What do you do with fresh figs?
- What do you do with preserved lemons?
- What is the difference between burrata and mozzarella?
- What is the difference between Parmigiano Reggiano and Grana Padano?
- What is the difference between passata, chopped tomatoes and tomato purée?
- What is the difference between salted and brined capers?
- When should you use pecorino instead of Parmesan?
- Which spices are actually worth buying?
- Which vinegar should you use for what?
Italian dishes and traditions 25
- What are arancini, and can you make them from leftover risotto?
- What are friselle, and how do you eat them?
- What does agrodolce mean in Italian cooking?
- What does fare la scarpetta mean?
- What is a piadina?
- What is a torta salata, and what can go in it?
- What is a tramezzino?
- What is an Italian sagra, and how do you find a good one?
- What is caponata?
- What is giardiniera?
- What is gremolata, and what do you put it on?
- What is Italian salsa verde?
- What is pangrattato?
- What is panzanella, and how do you keep it from going soggy?
- What is parmigiana di melanzane, and why does it take so long?
- What is pasta alla Norma?
- What is pasta e fagioli, and how do you get it creamy?
- What is pinzimonio?
- What is ribollita?
- What is the difference between bruschetta and crostini?
- What is the difference between pizza and pinsa?
- What is the difference between ragù and sugo?
- What is vignarola?
- What makes a caprese salad worth eating?
- What makes a good minestrone?
Everyday cooking and hosting 15
- How do you cook for a big group without a professional kitchen?
- How do you cook in a holiday rental kitchen with almost nothing?
- How do you cook without a recipe?
- How do you get kids cooking without chaos?
- How do you keep cooking at home when you're tired?
- How do you know what's in season?
- How do you make good pizza in a home oven?
- How do you plan a week of dinners without it feeling like admin?
- How do you shop at a farmers' market without overbuying?
- How do you turn leftovers into a completely different meal?
- What can you cook on a camping stove?
- What can you make with a tub of ricotta?
- What can you pack for lunch that's still good by midday?
- What snacks do you serve for an Italian aperitivo at home?
- Which sauces freeze well, and which don't?
Sweet things and baking 9
- Can you make good bread without kneading?
- How do you get big bubbles in homemade focaccia?
- How do you make lemonade that isn't too sweet?
- What does macerating fruit mean?
- What is a crostata?
- What is granita, and do you need a machine to make it?
- What is semifreddo?
- What is the difference between gelato and ice cream?
- What is the difference between panettone and pandoro?
Small pleasures 2
Italian writers and Italy 21
- Is If on a Winter's Night a Traveller confusing?
- Is the original Pinocchio worth reading as an adult?
- Is Umberto Eco funny?
- What are Calvino's Italian Folktales, and are they for adults?
- What is Alessandro Baricco's Silk about?
- What is Bruno Munari's Design as Art about?
- What is Cesare Pavese's The Moon and the Bonfires about?
- What is Dino Buzzati's The Tartar Steppe about?
- What is Elsa Morante's Arturo's Island about?
- What is Gianni Rodari's The Grammar of Fantasy?
- What is Natalia Ginzburg's The Little Virtues?
- What is Niccolò Ammaniti's I'm Not Scared about?
- What is Pirandello's One, No One and One Hundred Thousand about?
- What is Primo Levi's The Periodic Table about?
- What is the Decameron, and is it fun to read?
- What is The Eight Mountains by Paolo Cognetti about?
- What is The Garden of the Finzi-Continis about?
- What is the Strega Prize?
- What is Tim Parks's Italian Neighbours about?
- What should you read to help you learn Italian?
- Where should you start with Camilleri's Inspector Montalbano?
Novels and classics 14
- How do you actually finish War and Peace?
- Is A Room with a View worth reading?
- Is Middlemarch worth the effort?
- Is Moby-Dick worth reading, and how do you get through it?
- What are great short novels you can read in a weekend?
- What is a bildungsroman?
- What is magical realism?
- What is Mrs Dalloway about?
- What is The Remains of the Day about?
- Which classic novels are actually fun to read?
- Which translation of The Odyssey should you read?
- Why is Pride and Prejudice still so readable?
- Why is The Old Man and the Sea so famous?
- Why is The Talented Mr Ripley set in Italy?
Food writing 9
- Is Claudia Roden's The Food of Italy worth reading?
- Is Elizabeth David's Italian Food still worth reading?
- Is Ottolenghi's Plenty a good first vegetable cookbook?
- What is An Everlasting Meal by Tamar Adler?
- What is Il talismano della felicità?
- What is Julia Child's My Life in France about?
- What is Like Water for Chocolate about?
- What is Nigel Slater's Toast about?
- Who was M.F.K. Fisher, and where should you start?
Ideas and how to live 5
Sport, travel and the outdoors 3
Reading habits and how books work 19
- Do you miss something when you read a book in translation?
- Does it matter which edition of a classic you buy?
- How do you choose what to read next?
- How do you get into poetry if you think you don't like it?
- How do you get out of a reading slump?
- How do you read a classic novel without giving up?
- How do you remember more of what you read?
- How many books should you pack for a holiday?
- How should you organise your bookshelves?
- Is it still worth joining a library?
- Is it worth rereading books?
- What is a novella, and how is it different from a novel?
- What is a personal essay, and where should you start reading them?
- What is an unreliable narrator?
- What is stream of consciousness in literature?
- What is the Booker Prize, and are the winners good reads?
- What is the difference between literary fiction and genre fiction?
- What makes a good book club pick?
- Where do you find good second-hand books?