What do you do with preserved lemons?

A jar of preserved lemons is one of the most useful things you can keep in the fridge, and one of the most often abandoned after a single recipe. They aren't really for one dish. Think of them as concentrated lemon seasoning that keeps.

What preserving changes

Wikipedia's preserved lemon entry describes them as lemons pickled in salt, lemon juice and sometimes water and spices, left to ferment for weeks or months before use. They are common in Moroccan cooking, especially in tagines, and also turn up in the cooking of the Indian subcontinent.

The result is a different ingredient from a fresh lemon. The peel goes soft and silky, the white pith loses its bitterness, and the flavour turns rounder, saltier and more fragrant, with a gentle tang rather than a sour bite. Fresh lemon is bright; preserved lemon is deep.

Which part to use

The same entry notes that the peel is the most prized part, with a mildly tart, intensely lemony flavour, while the pulp can go into stews and sauces too.

How we use them:

1. Take out a wedge or a quarter with a clean spoon or fork.
2. Rinse it under the tap to wash off excess salt.
3. Scrape out the pulp with a knife. Keep it for stews or dressings, or discard it if you only want the peel.
4. Slice or chop the peel very finely.

Taste a sliver on its own first so you know its strength. Jars vary a lot.

Dishes where they shine

• Stews and tagines. Add chopped peel towards the end to vegetable stews with chickpeas, olives, carrots, squash or aubergine.
• Grain salads. Couscous, bulgur, farro or freekeh with herbs, olive oil, chopped preserved lemon and something sweet like dates or roasted squash. More ideas in grain salads that aren't bland.
• Dressings. Blend a little peel with olive oil, garlic, honey and herbs, or whisk the chopped peel into a vinaigrette.
• Roasted vegetables. Toss carrots, cauliflower, potatoes or fennel with chopped peel and oil before or after roasting.
• Pasta. Butter, garlic, chopped preserved lemon, parsley and a little cheese. Or with courgettes and mint.
• Yoghurt. Stir chopped peel into thick yoghurt with garlic and herbs, then spoon it next to roasted vegetables or falafel.
• Salsa verde and gremolata. Swap some fresh zest for chopped preserved lemon for a deeper version.
• Beans and lentils. A spoonful wakes up a pot of white beans or a lentil salad.

Balancing the salt

Preserved lemon is salty, so taste before adding more salt to the dish. When it goes into a recipe, reduce other salty ingredients such as capers, olives or anchovies a touch. Fresh herbs, olive oil and something sweet, such as roasted squash or a few raisins, balance it well.

Buying and keeping

Look for jars where the lemons are submerged in brine. Small lemons with thin skins tend to be the most tender. Shop-bought preserved lemons are perfectly good; some jars also sell just the peel as a paste, which is very handy.

Keep an opened jar as the label says, usually in the fridge, and always use a clean utensil. Keep the lemons covered by their liquid.