What is caponata?

Caponata is the dish that explains Sicily in a spoonful: aubergines and tomatoes from the sun, capers and olives from the hills, and that sweet-sour balance that runs through so much of the island's cooking. It is generous, forgiving and better the next day.

What it is

Wikipedia's caponata entry describes it as a Sicilian dish of chopped, fried aubergine and other vegetables, commonly with celery, seasoned with olive oil, tomato, olives and capers, cooked in an agrodolce (sweet and sour) sauce. Italian Wikipedia adds that today it is generally served as a side dish or antipasto, and that it is listed among Sicily's traditional food products recognised by Italy's agriculture ministry.

The regional versions

Every Sicilian province, and probably every Sicilian family, has its own version. Italian Wikipedia describes several:

• Palermo: the simplest, with olives and capers and a strong sweet-sour flavour.
• Agrigento: adds peppers, and sometimes honey, raisins, pistachios or almonds.
• Syracuse: uses fresh cherry tomatoes instead of tomato sauce, with Pantelleria capers and almonds.
• Trapani: with toasted almonds and sultanas.
• Catania: aubergine and tomato dominate, with pine nuts, raisins and basil.
• Messina: whole peeled tomatoes, so each vegetable stands out more.

So there is no single correct caponata. There is a family of them, sharing aubergine, sweet-and-sour seasoning and a lot of character.

How it comes together

The broad shape, rather than a recipe:

• The aubergine is cut into cubes and fried until soft and golden, or roasted to use less oil. Cook it fully: undercooked aubergine is squeaky and oily. Our page on cooking aubergine so it isn't oily covers the techniques.
• Celery and onion are cooked gently in olive oil until soft. The celery keeps a little crunch, which is part of the pleasure.
• Tomato, as sauce, passata or fresh, goes in with the olives and rinsed capers.
• The agrodolce: vinegar and sugar are added together, and the mixture simmers until the sharp smell of vinegar softens.
• The aubergine goes back in and everything is folded together.

Getting the sweet-sour balance right

This is the soul of caponata, and it is a matter of taste. Add the vinegar and sugar gradually, simmer briefly, then taste. You want something lively and bright but rounded: neither sour enough to make you wince nor sweet like a jam. If it is sharp, a little more sugar or more simmering; if it is flat, a splash more vinegar and a pinch of salt. Our page on agrodolce explores the idea further.

Let it rest

Caponata is one of those dishes that improves with time. The flavours mingle and soften as it sits. Make it a few hours ahead, or the day before, and keep it covered in the fridge. Bring it back to room temperature before serving.

How to serve it

• As an antipasto, with good bread to scoop it up.
• On bruschetta or crostini with drinks.
• As a side next to eggs, cheese, grilled vegetables or a frittata.
• With fresh ricotta or burrata, which balance its tang.
• Tossed through pasta, or spooned over polenta or couscous.
• On a picnic. It travels well and tastes best at room temperature.

Scatter fresh basil and toasted pine nuts or almonds on top just before serving.